Tart Treats

When enjoying the wealth of fresh berries this summer, try thinking beyond the usual suspects. Without a doubt, strawberries, blueberries and blackberries are seasonal staples, but what about some of the less common farm stand offerings, like the gooseberry? This grape-like fruit can make a pleasantly tart addition to summer meals and desserts.

Most people who have either heard of or tried a gooseberry often think of the bright orange variety with smooth skin and a papery husk. This fruit is related to the tomato and actually called a Cape gooseberry. Cape gooseberries can be found in most grocery stores, but northern varieties that are grown in Canada are slightly different and less common. Gooseberries are most readily available in European countries like England, where they grow profusely on low, scraggly bushes. Vancouver Island’s climate is ideal for the plant, so it may seem surprising that the gooseberry isn’t as popular as it is in Europe.

Often compared to currants (they’re from the same family), the gooseberry’s colour ranges from light green to red. The fruit has a distinct prickly skin that is thin and translucent. High in Vitamin C, gooseberries are notably astringent and pair well with sweeter fruits in cooked desserts such as tarts, pies and jams. Also try using gooseberries in savory dishes alongside meat like pork, such as in a relish or a chutney.

To prepare, cut the stem and tail off the berry. If desired, you may then eat the berry whole. Store gooseberries in the refrigerator and eat promptly while they are fresh. Avoid washing until ready to use. The whole berry may be frozen but tend to lose their texture if thawed completely after freezing. Smaller, firm green berries are more tart than their riper counterparts, and are commonly added to jams because of their high pectin content.

Although rare, gooseberries are occasionally grown locally on farms. While a variety of growers used to produce gooseberries, many have stopped due to the difficulty associated with picking berries from a thorny plant.

Some local wineries, such as Morningstar Farm’s MooBerry, feature an award-winning gooseberry wine that is both sweet and tangy.  Travelling north of Victoria, look for fresh gooseberries at Fallen Fir Ranch in Parksville or Dudink’s Farm near Nanaimo. On the mainland, Bissett Farms and Emma Lea Farms both offer u-pick gooseberries.

Look for gooseberries at markets and farm stands until the end of August.

By Candice Schultz, originally published at eatmagazine.ca

Local Strawberries

The sun is shining, the weather is warm and markets are gearing up for the season. As summer approaches, so does the highly anticipated Vancouver Island strawberry harvest.  For many, it’s difficult to imagine June and July without the delectable sweetness of Vancouver Island strawberries.

While imported varieties from places like California are available year-round, locals agree that strawberries grown on Vancouver Island are juicier and more flavourful than their American counterparts. The difference is easy to tell when biting into a fresh local strawberry on a hot summer day. In the off season, one remembers the juicy, mouth-watering flavour and begins counting down the days to strawberry season.  Not to worry, though – the first berries are just weeks away.

But what makes Island strawberries superior to seemingly similar varieties grown elsewhere? The secret, farmers say, is in the growing conditions. Farmers on the Saanich Peninsula credit the loamy soil (an even concentration of sand, silt and clay), and west-facing slopes that provide generous afternoon sun. Both of these conditions are ideal for strawberry growth. Our temperate climate also ensures that the plant doesn’t get too cold in the winter, which slows the growth rate in the spring. Summer temperatures remain relatively cool, which produces a firmer berry. Hot temperatures are often responsible for mushy, sloppy strawberries. Practise also makes perfect – farmers on Vancouver Island have been growing strawberries for decades, allowing them to produce the best product possible.

Local strawberries are generally smaller than imported ones and have a higher sugar content than imported varieties, which are picked for their appearance. This creates the intense flavour that Vancouver Islanders look forward to every summer and one of the reasons why we can’t wait to bite into the first bright red berry of the season.

Grown all over the Island but particularly on the Saanich Peninsula, these summer berries are usually available from June to October. After an unseasonably warm spring, however, growers are anticipating the first strawberries to be ready as early as May long weekend this year. In season, local strawberries can be found at markets, farm stands, or at U-Pick locations. Island strawberries are picked at the peak of their ripeness, maximizing flavour and nutritional value while decreasing the time that it takes for the fruit to reach your mouth. Often, local strawberries are sold within hours of picking, which is another factor that contributes to a better tasting product. It’s also one of the many reasons why locals say that Vancouver Island strawberries taste more like strawberries than from anywhere else.

Whether purchasing or picking, look for the ripest berries. Unripe strawberries only redden slightly after picked. As well, be sure to eat or freeze Island strawberries quickly. Left on the counter, they will develop mold quickly and won’t last much longer in the refrigerator.

The season is limited, so head to the nearest farm or market early to get your share of local strawberries, and eat lavishly. Little compares to the flavour of a fresh Vancouver Island strawberry.

By Candice Schultz

Originally published in EAT Magazine, May/June 2010