Morels and More

On Tuesday, April 27, Cowichan Valley-based chef and mushroom forager Bill Jones led an intimate demonstration class at French Mint dedicated to local wild and cultivated mushrooms. Over the course of three hours, Bill introduced the group of 10 mushroom fanatics to a variety fungi, most of which can be found on Vancouver Island. Always a trusty guide, Bill offered tips for foraging and cooking each type.

While there were several highlights of the night, Bill focused on the elusive morel mushroom, one of the few that are currently in season on Vancouver Island. Most mushrooms are more commonly found in the fall, but morels are abundant in the spring and through the summer. If foraging for morels, though, prepare to be disappointed – these hollow, dark brown fungi look a lot like pinecones. Normally, this would be enough to fool the most experienced forager, but after the Island’s recent wind storms, the ground is littered with pinecones that make morel foraging even more difficult.

Morels are rarely available fresh but, according to Bill, a dried morel is just as tasty. Dry morels can be stored for up to five years and dehydration actually concentrates the flavour. Store dry morels in a tightly sealed zip lock bag to avoid fungus gnats, which are attracted to the scent and will destroy your supply.

To reconstitute dried morels, soak them in hot water for a few minutes then pour the water off to get rid of any silt or grit. Add more hot water and soak the mushrooms for about 15 minutes. Do not soak fresh morels. Like other varieties of mushroom, morels will deteriorate and rot faster after soaking. Bill also recommends cooking all mushrooms for food safety, especially wild varieties.

Morels are commonly used in French cuisine, in particular, added to sauces, which stick to its honey-comb-like exterior. At French Mint, Bill used morels alongside shiitakes, enokis and portobellos in a Japanese-style pickled mushroom dish atop spinach gomae. He used his personal supply of rare fire morels for another mouth-watering dish; chorizo and leek-stuffed fire morels, braised in Merridale apple cider.

Fire morels are named appropriately, because they’re found in fields that have previously been burned by forest fire. Experts say that morels favour the lack of growing competition in this environment. This explains their size, which is much larger than the average morel. Fire morels morels have a subtle smoky aroma which, at French Mint, complemented the chorizo stuffing.

When foraging for any mushroom, always be aware of the picking environment. Mushrooms soak up what is around them so avoid areas that have been sprayed or contaminated in any way. As always, be certain that you know what you are picking or forage with someone who can assist in identifying safe varieties.

To make Bill’s Braised morels stuffed with chorizo and leeks, click here.

To attend a seasonally-inspired dinner at Bill Jones’ Deerholme Farm, visit http://www.magnorth.bc.ca/

To attend a class at French Mint, visit http://frenchmint.ca/

By Candice Schultz. Originally published at eatmagazine.ca