Season’s Eatings

The other dark meat

by Candice Schultz, from eatmagazine.ca

‘Tis the season for full bellies and tasty treats. While it may seem natural to settle down to a stuffed turkey dinner and all the fixings on Christmas Day, the more adventurous might consider roasting a goose instead. Having just eaten our way through a turkey dinner free-for-all in October, cooking a Christmas goose can be a refreshing alternative to the Thanksgiving staple.

In North America, turkey is the go-to bird for most holiday meals. Historically, though, Europeans have feasted on Christmas goose for centuries. In fact, in Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol, the Cratchit family serves goose for their Christmas meal. Most of us won’t break from North American tradition this week, but consider goose when stuffing any bird. Its crispy skin and rich flavour rival that of any fowl and the fact that goose can be relatively easy to find and prepare might surprise some.

Most consider goose in the context of hunting which isn’t completely untrue. British Columbia’s wilderness is known for its capacity to produce delicious, local meat. Because Vancouver Island no longer has a large-scale poultry processing plant, geese are either privately hunted on the Island or most commonly bred on the mainland. So, unless you hunt or know someone who does, talk to your specialty butcher about getting fresh geese from the Fraser Valley.

Like any game, goose has a strong, distinct flavour. While turkey and chicken are low maintenance to prepare, goose requires a little bit more attention but can yield impressive results that will surprise dinner guests. When cooking goose, look for a bird that is eight to twelve pounds (bigger is not better). Be sure to prick the skin to allow the fat to seep out when cooking. When stuffing the bird, favour ingredients like apple, onion, and orange, and be sure to add liquid to the roasting pan to prevent the drippings from burning. Although the layer of fat under the skin makes goose seem like an oily bird, remember that the meat itself is relatively lean and can easily become dry if overcooked.

Use leftovers in similar ways to other poultry – shredded on a sandwich or a salad – and boil the carcass for an incredible soup base. Also be sure to save the wonderfully flavoured fat to add richness to future meals.

See this week’s recipe box for an excellent accompaniment to roast goose, cassis-braised red cabbage.