Crab apple trees, which actually belong to the rose family, are common in Canadian backyards and orchards. The trees are more often grown for ornamental purposes or as pollinizers in orchards. Less often, crab apple trees are grown for the fruit because their mouth-puckering isn’t exactly. That said, crab apples can be used in several tasty ways, whether it’s to liven a fruity dessert or accompany a summer meal.

Apples are generally classified based on their size. If its diameter exceeds two inches, it’s called an apple. Anything less than two inches in diameter is deemed a crab apple. There are several varieties of crab apple, but the bottom line is the same: crab apples contain a large amount of pectin which is why biting into an uncooked crab apple is nothing like a shiny Red Delicious.

The pectin in crab apples, however, can come in handy: the juice can be used to make a jelly that ranges in colour from light pink to red. The resulting jelly is spicy and robust, the perfect accompaniment to soft cheeses and breads.

Crab apples are also high in acid, which is likely why traditional crab apple recipes involve pickling, then serving alongside hearty meat dishes. Allspice, cinnamon and cloves are often used in the pickling mixture.

In Metchosin, Blue Haze Farm grows two varieties of crab apples, dolgo and hyslop. Dolgo crab apples are available earlier in the season and deep red in colour. Dolgo crab apples are slightly sweet but still possess the distinct tart flavour. Hyslop crab apples are slightly larger than the dolgo variety, and red and yellow in colour. They are available later in the season, around September.

According to the folks at Blue Haze, the resulting flavour of the jelly produced by each variety is similar. Blue Haze recommends calling or emailing ahead of time to ensure that they have the product available for you when you come to pick it up.

Oldfield Orchard and Bakery in Saanich also grows crab apples, which are available beginning in the middle of August until sold out.

If pickles and jellies don’t appeal to you in the middle of summer, enjoy local crab apples in Sea Cider’s Pomona, which is made from frozen crab apples and slowly fermented. The resulting cider is concentrated and sweet. According to Sea Cider, “Pomona is inspired by the Roman Goddess of Apples… a dessert-style cider with citrus and confectionary notes.”

Sea Cider’s Pomona placed silver at the prestigious 2010 Northwest Wine Summit, and Sea Cider was a awarded the bronze medal by EAT Magazine readers in EAT Magazine’s 1st Annual Exceptional Eats! Reader’s Choice Awards in the Favourite Beverage Company Category.

Whether using crab apples for in traditional recipes or in a completely new way, enjoy the tiny apples while they’re fresh and plentiful, from mid August through September.

By Candice Schultz, originally published at eatmagazine.ca

Commonly referred to as a vegetable, eggplant is actually a fruit. In fact, depending on the variety, eggplant is considered to be one of the world’s largest berries. To be specific, eggplant comes from the nightshade family, which also includes potatoes, tomatoes and peppers. This handsome fruit has evolved over time around the world to include a variety of colours and shapes, ranging from shades of purple, to green and even white. Eggplant may be long and thin, round, or oblong and bulbous like the glossy royal purple supermarket variety, called Black Beauty.

Working with eggplant requires special care, mostly because the raw product is bitter and spongy. Like any other ingredient, remember that fresh is best. This is due to the fact that its seeds contain compounds (nicotinoid alkaloids) that are actually related to tobacco, which explains the unpleasant flavour. Larger, older eggplants contain more seeds, which results in a flavour that’s increasingly off-putting. If working with an older eggplant, the unpleasant taste can be leeched out by sprinkling some salt on the raw flesh, letting it sit for an hour, then rinsing and patting dry. Older eggplants also tend to have tough skin and may benefit from peeling before use.

Once cooked, though, it’s as if eggplant’s white flesh caramelizes. It has a velvety texture and rich flavour. Eggplant both soaks up and accentuates whatever flavour it’s cooked with. It’s hearty yet delicate, making eggplant a great main ingredient in meatless dishes. Simply noting some of the dishes that eggplant is traditionally used in speaks to the versatility of the fruit. Whether it’s Greek moussaka, Middle Eastern baba ghanoush or French ratatouille, there’s no doubt that eggplant can take either a supporting or starring role in many different meals.

Look for eggplants that are smooth, firm and feel heavy for their size. While eggplant can be found year round in supermarkets, the best product is undoubtedly available in the summer and early fall when it’s freshest. Store whole, uncut eggplant in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for no more than a couple of days.

Several local farms are growing eggplant this year.  Dan’s Farm grows the traditional, dark purple Black Beauty variety, while Sun Trio Farm offers an oblong-shaped, purple and white variety. Also look for eggplant from the vendors at your favourite summer market.

Look for eggplant between now and October.

By Candice Schultz, originally published at eatmagazine.ca

Most people who have either heard of or tried a gooseberry often think of the bright orange variety with smooth skin and a papery husk. This fruit is related to the tomato and actually called a Cape gooseberry. Cape gooseberries can be found in most grocery stores, but northern varieties that are grown in Canada are slightly different and less common. Gooseberries are most readily available in European countries like England, where they grow profusely on low, scraggly bushes. Vancouver Island’s climate is ideal for the plant, so it may seem surprising that the gooseberry isn’t as popular as it is in Europe.

Often compared to currants (they’re from the same family), the gooseberry’s colour ranges from light green to red. The fruit has a distinct prickly skin that is thin and translucent. High in Vitamin C, gooseberries are notably astringent and pair well with sweeter fruits in cooked desserts such as tarts, pies and jams. Also try using gooseberries in savory dishes alongside meat like pork, such as in a relish or a chutney.

To prepare, cut the stem and tail off the berry. If desired, you may then eat the berry whole. Store gooseberries in the refrigerator and eat promptly while they are fresh. Avoid washing until ready to use. The whole berry may be frozen but tend to lose their texture if thawed completely after freezing. Smaller, firm green berries are more tart than their riper counterparts, and are commonly added to jams because of their high pectin content.

Although rare, gooseberries are occasionally grown locally on farms. While a variety of growers used to produce gooseberries, many have stopped due to the difficulty associated with picking berries from a thorny plant.

Some local wineries, such as Morningstar Farm’s MooBerry, feature an award-winning gooseberry wine that is both sweet and tangy.  Travelling north of Victoria, look for fresh gooseberries at Fallen Fir Ranch in Parksville or Dudink’s Farm near Nanaimo. On the mainland, Bissett Farms and Emma Lea Farms both offer u-pick gooseberries.

Look for gooseberries at markets and farm stands until the end of August.

By Candice Schultz, originally published at eatmagazine.ca

While imported varieties from places like California are available year-round, locals agree that strawberries grown on Vancouver Island are juicier and more flavourful than their American counterparts. The difference is easy to tell when biting into a fresh local strawberry on a hot summer day. In the off season, one remembers the juicy, mouth-watering flavour and begins counting down the days to strawberry season.  Not to worry, though – the first berries are just weeks away.

But what makes Island strawberries superior to seemingly similar varieties grown elsewhere? The secret, farmers say, is in the growing conditions. Farmers on the Saanich Peninsula credit the loamy soil (an even concentration of sand, silt and clay), and west-facing slopes that provide generous afternoon sun. Both of these conditions are ideal for strawberry growth. Our temperate climate also ensures that the plant doesn’t get too cold in the winter, which slows the growth rate in the spring. Summer temperatures remain relatively cool, which produces a firmer berry. Hot temperatures are often responsible for mushy, sloppy strawberries. Practise also makes perfect – farmers on Vancouver Island have been growing strawberries for decades, allowing them to produce the best product possible.

Local strawberries are generally smaller than imported ones and have a higher sugar content than imported varieties, which are picked for their appearance. This creates the intense flavour that Vancouver Islanders look forward to every summer and one of the reasons why we can’t wait to bite into the first bright red berry of the season.

Grown all over the Island but particularly on the Saanich Peninsula, these summer berries are usually available from June to October. After an unseasonably warm spring, however, growers are anticipating the first strawberries to be ready as early as May long weekend this year. In season, local strawberries can be found at markets, farm stands, or at U-Pick locations. Island strawberries are picked at the peak of their ripeness, maximizing flavour and nutritional value while decreasing the time that it takes for the fruit to reach your mouth. Often, local strawberries are sold within hours of picking, which is another factor that contributes to a better tasting product. It’s also one of the many reasons why locals say that Vancouver Island strawberries taste more like strawberries than from anywhere else.

Whether purchasing or picking, look for the ripest berries. Unripe strawberries only redden slightly after picked. As well, be sure to eat or freeze Island strawberries quickly. Left on the counter, they will develop mold quickly and won’t last much longer in the refrigerator.

The season is limited, so head to the nearest farm or market early to get your share of local strawberries, and eat lavishly. Little compares to the flavour of a fresh Vancouver Island strawberry.

By Candice Schultz

Originally published in EAT Magazine, May/June 2010

While there were several highlights of the night, Bill focused on the elusive morel mushroom, one of the few that are currently in season on Vancouver Island. Most mushrooms are more commonly found in the fall, but morels are abundant in the spring and through the summer. If foraging for morels, though, prepare to be disappointed – these hollow, dark brown fungi look a lot like pinecones. Normally, this would be enough to fool the most experienced forager, but after the Island’s recent wind storms, the ground is littered with pinecones that make morel foraging even more difficult.

Morels are rarely available fresh but, according to Bill, a dried morel is just as tasty. Dry morels can be stored for up to five years and dehydration actually concentrates the flavour. Store dry morels in a tightly sealed zip lock bag to avoid fungus gnats, which are attracted to the scent and will destroy your supply.

To reconstitute dried morels, soak them in hot water for a few minutes then pour the water off to get rid of any silt or grit. Add more hot water and soak the mushrooms for about 15 minutes. Do not soak fresh morels. Like other varieties of mushroom, morels will deteriorate and rot faster after soaking. Bill also recommends cooking all mushrooms for food safety, especially wild varieties.

Morels are commonly used in French cuisine, in particular, added to sauces, which stick to its honey-comb-like exterior. At French Mint, Bill used morels alongside shiitakes, enokis and portobellos in a Japanese-style pickled mushroom dish atop spinach gomae. He used his personal supply of rare fire morels for another mouth-watering dish; chorizo and leek-stuffed fire morels, braised in Merridale apple cider.

Fire morels are named appropriately, because they’re found in fields that have previously been burned by forest fire. Experts say that morels favour the lack of growing competition in this environment. This explains their size, which is much larger than the average morel. Fire morels morels have a subtle smoky aroma which, at French Mint, complemented the chorizo stuffing.

When foraging for any mushroom, always be aware of the picking environment. Mushrooms soak up what is around them so avoid areas that have been sprayed or contaminated in any way. As always, be certain that you know what you are picking or forage with someone who can assist in identifying safe varieties.

To make Bill’s Braised morels stuffed with chorizo and leeks, click here.

To attend a seasonally-inspired dinner at Bill Jones’ Deerholme Farm, visit http://www.magnorth.bc.ca/

To attend a class at French Mint, visit http://frenchmint.ca/

By Candice Schultz. Originally published at eatmagazine.ca

Here’s a quick rundown of some common spring greens:

Fiddleheads are one of the earliest spring greens and named appropriately. These ostrich fern shoots, which haven’t yet unfurled, look remarkably like the curled head of a fiddle. Fiddleheads have a rich flavour, similar to asparagus or green beans, but also unlike any other vegetable. To prep, simply soak fiddleheads in water for about 15 minutes then peel off the papery chaf. Fiddleheads should be steamed or boiled until completely tender prior to consuming as they have been known to cause illness if not cooked thoroughly.

Dandelion leaves are best eaten before the flower blooms. After this point, the plant develops an unpleasantly bitter flavour. Dandelions can make a tasty addition to salads but use them sparingly along with mild-flavoured greens. Dandelion leaves are also tasty sautéed and may replace chard in some dishes. If picking dandelions, always be sure to pick them from an unsprayed yard or field.

Oxeye daisy is a surprisingly sweet green that exudes a flavour reminiscent of apple. These flowers often grow in a circle on yards and in fields. They may be eaten raw in salads or pureed then added to sauces or soft cheeses. Oxeye daisy leaves are a tasty starting point for spring greens because the flavour is more delicate and fruitier than other varieties.

Mustard greens are a peppery green that produces the seeds that are used to make Dijon mustard. Mizuna is one common type of mustard green that is readily available in stores and often used in salads.  The thicker, deeply coloured leaves may be steamed and/or sautéed, but lose their flavour when overcooked.

Chickweed has a similar flavour to spinach when boiled and is just as nutritious. It may also be used uncooked in salads and makes a nice accompaniment to dandelion leaves.

Sorrel is a leafy green that has a distinct lemony flavour. It may be eaten raw or cooked, and prepared in a similar way to spinach. If using sorrel in a salad, favour smaller, more tender leaves that have a fruitier flavour. The versatility and bright flavour of sorrel makes it an excellent complement to any spring green.

There are a surprisingly abundant amount of wild edible greens available and you may not have to look further than your backyard or the cracks in your sidewalk. While spring is quickly turning into summer, experiment with different greens while there are still plenty to try.

By Candice Schultz. Originally published at eatmagazine.ca

Often considered a ‘superfood’ because of its high nutritional content, the nettle is rich in vitamin A and C, as well as iron, potassium, calcium and protein. In addition, nettles are said to improve circulation and kidney function. This nutrient-rich plant isn’t only good for humans, though. Tea made from the nettle may be given to cows to increase milk production or chickens to accentuate the golden hue of the yolk. Although the stinging nettle is often considered a weed, it’s also a natural deterrent for aphids, and provides strength to weaker plants when used in compost. The fibrous stems have even historically been used to make rope.

Stinging nettle is commonly compared to spinach because of its slightly nutty, earthy flavour. Like most greens, it wilts when cooked, but the nettle has a firmer texture than spinach. If prepared correctly, it’s just as versatile. Nettle aficionados recommend using the plant in a seemingly endless list of ways: in soup, pesto, sauces, or even simply sautéed. In many cases, the leaves can be used as an appropriate stand-in for any mild green.

Be sure to exercise caution when foraging or preparing stinging nettle, though. The plant is covered in small, hollow hairs filled with formic acid, the toxin that gives the nettle its name. When cooked, the nettle loses its stinging properties but until then, handle with care. Use gloves and wear long sleeves to trim and wash the leaves, then cook thoroughly. Steaming is the most effective method of cooking because a quick sauté isn’t enough to deactivate the sting. After cooking, some recommend wrapping the leaves in a towel and squeezing out the liquid, which can be reserved and used as tea.

Once the plant is cooked, it’s safe to handle and the possibilities are numerous. Combine with sorrel for a lemony, fresh flavour, or puree, portion and freeze to use whenever convenient. Add it to pasta, quiche, polenta, or enjoy it on its own.

See this week’s recipe box for a great stinging nettle recipe, compliments of Mara Jernigan.

By Candice Schultz, originally published at eatmagazine.ca

These bottom dwellers live on the ocean floor and have grey skin that’s juxtaposed by pearly white flesh. They have been harvested in BC for more than 40 years and, although they’re traditionally exported across the Pacific, Sablefish are becoming more common within Canadian borders. Originally harvested as bycatch*, Sablefish are now caught live in traps, which preserves the quality and freshness of the fish. On the ecological front, this method of fishing eliminates bycatch and the accidental harvesting of juvenile fish, ensuring a sustainable product.

When purchasing sablefish, look for firm, pearly white flesh and skin that is not discoloured. Also, keep in mind that larger fish have a superior taste and texture to the smaller ones. Sablefish is often smoked, which can be a delicious addition to purees and dips. It is also commonly available unsmoked as fillets, steaks or “J” cut, in which the head and collar have been removed. Sablefish flesh contains a high oil content which makes it perfect for high heat, quick cooking such as pan searing and grilling. Its large flakes also stand up to slower cooking methods, such as braising and poaching.

A versatile, forgiving fish, the key with sablefish is to experiment. Its fat content allows it to withstand higher heat without drying out, and its firmness ensures that it won’t fall apart when cooked for longer periods. Also, look to sablefish for your daily dose of omega-3 fatty acids. This fish, which is available year round, provides as much as wild salmon and is an ecologically responsible, local choice.

See this week’s recipe box for an excellent sablefish recipe.

*Bycatch is defined as “fish caught unintentionally in a fishery while intending to catch other fish. Bycatch are either of a different species or juveniles of the target species.” (Wikipedia)

Written by Candice Schultz for http://www.EATmagazine.ca

Jacquie, who turns 60 in April, is a long-distance power walker who cultivated her enthusiasm through a series of life-altering events. Now, she participates in various long-distance runs and walks, including the Royal Victoria Marathon, the Great Lake Walk around Lake Cowichan and the Great Walk from Gold River to Thasis.

For many of the ultra events, which are classified as any distance longer than the traditional 26.2-mile marathon, Jacquie connects her participation to a fundraiser.

The transition to power walking came from trying to find a balance between work and life. “I was always athletic in school and enjoyed team sports, but distance running was not in my vocabulary,” she says. “To make a long story short, I became a critical care nurse and sports went on the wayside. In 1994, I realized I was pretty much married to my work, and decided that there was more to life, so I stepped back from my career quite a bit.”

Jacquie was already a swimmer and a cycler, so she got involved in triathlon.

“One day, I was out at Elk Lake and in the quietness and privacy of myself, I thought, ‘Let’s see what I can do here.’ If I could run or walk, I could do triathlon. I walked really fast, and realized I got around [the lake] in reasonable time. I did some slow-paced running with triathlon in the 90s.”

In 2002, however, Jacquie developed a work-related bilateral hand injury called Chronic Regional Pain Syndrome. The complication, which affects her secondary sympathetic nervous system, brought Jacquie’s life crashing down.

“I basically, overnight, lost my career. That threw the triathlon out the window. Swimming was very painful. I have limited use of my hands now, and significant pain.”

Around the same time, Jacquie’s mother, Ellen Rae Farris, was diagnosed with dementia. Jacquie attended, and later facilitated, support groups at the Alzheimer Resource Centre in Victoria. Although in pain and unable to work, this sequence of events made Jacquie realize she still wanted to contribute to her community.

“In so helping others, you help yourself,” she says.

When Jacquie gave up driving four years ago and began walking for transportation, she was relieved.

“I went to turn into my [parking] stall, and I had splints on my hand at the time,” she recalls. “My hands slipped and I scraped the side of my car on a pillar. I brought the car to a stop; nobody was hurt. A car can be fixed. I turned the ignition off and I never got in the car again. I think I already knew.”

Soon after, Jacquie began power walking in running events. “I knew that I would be last, but I didn’t care. It was about participating. I don’t do anything fast. I’m the endurance kind of gal,” she says with a grin.

Jacquie has lost count of the number of half marathons, marathons and ultra events she has participated in. The endorphins from the physical exercise relieve her pain, boost her self-esteem and allow her to contribute to her community in a meaningful way, all of which are motivating factors in Jacquie’s power walking.

“I’m interested in participating and achieving my own personal goals,” she says. “I love pushing myself for the distance.”

Although Jacquie is modest, her event times and fundraising efforts are impressive. In August 2008, Jacquie walked the length of the Galloping Goose and the Lochside Trail – a total of 80 km – in 10 hours and 55 minutes in support of the Family Caregivers Network. Jacquie’s mother matched her fundraising contributions and donated them to the Alzheimer Society of B.C. Between mother and daughter, they contributed over $12,000 to the organizations.

Jacquie’s other passion revolves around someone much younger. In July of 2004, 21-year-old athlete Sean Marlowe was on his way to pick up his race package for a pre-World Cup triathlon event when he was involved in a motor vehicle accident with a tractor-trailer. The athlete, who once trained for the Beijing Olympics, sustained a permanent brain injury that left him immobile and unable to speak.

Three years later, Jacquie read a newspaper article about Sean’s mother, Cherith. She learned that it was the family’s goal to bring Sean home from Aberdeen Hospital in Victoria. At the time, Jacquie was preparing to do the Great Lake Walk. A few nights later, she bolted upright in bed with an idea.

Jacquie contacted Cherith and discovered that although the bigger picture was to bring Sean home, what his mother really wanted was to make him more mobile. Jacquie turned her participation in the 2007 Great Lake Walk into a fundraiser, and raised $6,000 for a custom-built adult jogging stroller for Sean, called the Red Racer.

When the Red Racer arrived, Jacquie planned a community celebration at Beaver Lake Park the following April.

“The event was both to present the Red Racer to Sean and to thank the community,” Jacquie says. “Nothing inspires me more when I’m doing ultra marathons, than when I have a cause that I’m passionate about.”

At the celebration, Jacquie announced a commitment to annually complete the September Great Lake Walk as a fundraiser to support Sean’s ongoing needs.

Now at home, Sean requires 24-hour care and support. At last year’s Great Lake Walk, Jacquie raised enough money to purchase a modified recumbent stepper for Sean so he can exercise.

For her 60th birthday, Jacquie plans to power walk 100 km for another cause. Until then, her inspiration comes from her parents, helping others and her favourite saying, “the bend in the road is not the end of the road as long as you’re willing to take the turn.”

“If I didn’t have my power walking, I don’t know where I would be with my own disability and coping with my pain,” says Jacquie. “It isn’t about high performance. More important to me is that I can get out, walk to see my mom and walk to town to do the chores I need to do.”

When Jacquie looks back on power walking, she thinks of her mother, once an avid walker, who appreciated the sense of community and connection with the environment that accompanied an afternoon stroll.

“Now, I look back and I really honour my mother,” she says. “Yes, she did get dementia, but she has handled it so much better with her prudent lifestyle. My gratitude for some of my philosophies and values in life and my ability to move on are because of my mom.”

JANUARY 2010 SENIOR LIVING VANCOUVER ISLAND

by Candice Schultz, from eatmagazine.ca

‘Tis the season for full bellies and tasty treats. While it may seem natural to settle down to a stuffed turkey dinner and all the fixings on Christmas Day, the more adventurous might consider roasting a goose instead. Having just eaten our way through a turkey dinner free-for-all in October, cooking a Christmas goose can be a refreshing alternative to the Thanksgiving staple.

In North America, turkey is the go-to bird for most holiday meals. Historically, though, Europeans have feasted on Christmas goose for centuries. In fact, in Charles Dickens’ A Christmas Carol, the Cratchit family serves goose for their Christmas meal. Most of us won’t break from North American tradition this week, but consider goose when stuffing any bird. Its crispy skin and rich flavour rival that of any fowl and the fact that goose can be relatively easy to find and prepare might surprise some.

Most consider goose in the context of hunting which isn’t completely untrue. British Columbia’s wilderness is known for its capacity to produce delicious, local meat. Because Vancouver Island no longer has a large-scale poultry processing plant, geese are either privately hunted on the Island or most commonly bred on the mainland. So, unless you hunt or know someone who does, talk to your specialty butcher about getting fresh geese from the Fraser Valley.

Like any game, goose has a strong, distinct flavour. While turkey and chicken are low maintenance to prepare, goose requires a little bit more attention but can yield impressive results that will surprise dinner guests. When cooking goose, look for a bird that is eight to twelve pounds (bigger is not better). Be sure to prick the skin to allow the fat to seep out when cooking. When stuffing the bird, favour ingredients like apple, onion, and orange, and be sure to add liquid to the roasting pan to prevent the drippings from burning. Although the layer of fat under the skin makes goose seem like an oily bird, remember that the meat itself is relatively lean and can easily become dry if overcooked.

Use leftovers in similar ways to other poultry – shredded on a sandwich or a salad – and boil the carcass for an incredible soup base. Also be sure to save the wonderfully flavoured fat to add richness to future meals.

See this week’s recipe box for an excellent accompaniment to roast goose, cassis-braised red cabbage.