Tart Treats

When enjoying the wealth of fresh berries this summer, try thinking beyond the usual suspects. Without a doubt, strawberries, blueberries and blackberries are seasonal staples, but what about some of the less common farm stand offerings, like the gooseberry? This grape-like fruit can make a pleasantly tart addition to summer meals and desserts.

Most people who have either heard of or tried a gooseberry often think of the bright orange variety with smooth skin and a papery husk. This fruit is related to the tomato and actually called a Cape gooseberry. Cape gooseberries can be found in most grocery stores, but northern varieties that are grown in Canada are slightly different and less common. Gooseberries are most readily available in European countries like England, where they grow profusely on low, scraggly bushes. Vancouver Island’s climate is ideal for the plant, so it may seem surprising that the gooseberry isn’t as popular as it is in Europe.

Often compared to currants (they’re from the same family), the gooseberry’s colour ranges from light green to red. The fruit has a distinct prickly skin that is thin and translucent. High in Vitamin C, gooseberries are notably astringent and pair well with sweeter fruits in cooked desserts such as tarts, pies and jams. Also try using gooseberries in savory dishes alongside meat like pork, such as in a relish or a chutney.

To prepare, cut the stem and tail off the berry. If desired, you may then eat the berry whole. Store gooseberries in the refrigerator and eat promptly while they are fresh. Avoid washing until ready to use. The whole berry may be frozen but tend to lose their texture if thawed completely after freezing. Smaller, firm green berries are more tart than their riper counterparts, and are commonly added to jams because of their high pectin content.

Although rare, gooseberries are occasionally grown locally on farms. While a variety of growers used to produce gooseberries, many have stopped due to the difficulty associated with picking berries from a thorny plant.

Some local wineries, such as Morningstar Farm’s MooBerry, feature an award-winning gooseberry wine that is both sweet and tangy.  Travelling north of Victoria, look for fresh gooseberries at Fallen Fir Ranch in Parksville or Dudink’s Farm near Nanaimo. On the mainland, Bissett Farms and Emma Lea Farms both offer u-pick gooseberries.

Look for gooseberries at markets and farm stands until the end of August.

By Candice Schultz, originally published at eatmagazine.ca